The Beautiful Town of Assisi

As my last post made mention to, I recently spent about 3 days and 2 nights in Assisi arriving back at the John Felice Rome Center (JFRC) Tuesday evening. This will not be my last time in Assisi—how can I not visit, at least once more, a city of such splendor!

This will be the first of two posts regarding my time in Assisi. Forgive me if the second enters into the field of theology too heavily; I just could not help but think of the Divine when spending time in that holy, little town. To be precise, my writings on this blog about Assisi would be empty if they did not enter into my time of reflection while there—indeed, theology in Assisi was my “casus”, my adventure.
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After arriving and getting situated in our rooms—recall that this was part of orientation—groups split up into different tour groups, and our guides gave us a tour of the town. I was, not surprisingly, touched by the magnificent basilicas: San Chiara, San Rufino, San Pietro, the Church built over the house of Francis, and, of course, San Francesco.

In the Basilica of San Chiara, I was honored to be able to stare at the San Damiano Crucifix—the original cross that spoke to St. Francis and called him to “rebuild” Christ’s Church. Chills ran through my body as I was able to look into the eyes of Christ that called Francis. In addition, I was able to look at the body of St. Claire. When they originally found her body, she was in excellent condition—not much disrupted by death. After exposure, however, her face began change. As a result, an exact wax model of her face was created. Now, the body, with the wax face is exposed certain hours throughout the day. When I walked into the basement of the Church to see this body, I saw a glimpse of it from afar, and my mind screamed with joy: “How beautiful!” If only we could all understand the beauty of simplicity!

Another Church worth mentioning is the Temple of Minerva. Once a Roman pagan temple, it was then converted into a Catholic Church—I think in honor of Mary (sorry for the uncertainty). I really enjoyed seeing this Church because on the outside it is clearly the architecture of a pagan temple. But, in it’s interior is beautiful Baroque artwork. It is not a very large Church, but the inside is quite beautiful. There is gold, remarkable paintings, candles, stunning statues, and a tabernacle that catches one’s attention instantly. How can one not think of God in a place that points to Him in every direction?

Then, of course, there is the Basilica of Saint Francis. I have always had a devotion to this holy saint, but my time in Assisi these past few days greatly reinforced and deepened my devotion. His basilica is outstanding. It is three floors, and three Churches. Upon walking into the upper level, a Jesuit priest in front of me—visiting Assisi for the first time—exclaimed immediately: “Now this is amazing.” I cannot say much more about that. There is just something “amazing” about entering into a place where not only the Divine is present, but a place where everything in it is focused on the Divine—the walls, the ceiling, the lighting, the pews, the floors, the altars, the architecture, etc. One’s prayer is one’s very admiration of beauty. Additionally, it is worth mentioning the lowest Church; here is the tomb of St. Francis. It is a tomb and a Church—there is an altar and Tabernacle. The Church is incredibly solemn, for it is not very light and the attitude is one of extreme reverence and silence. Yet, in a very mystical way, it is touching to be in a place where extreme and humble piety is the norm, life and death are honored, God is adored…

Indeed, while many of these Churches have a deep solemn presence, they are, simultaneously, intensely joyful. Being struck by their divine beauty is freeing, a true experience of what it means to be free: it is to look at God, and so to Love. I noticed that the solemn presence in these Churches were joyful because one could only look up, one could only say: “amazing”. The beautiful artwork and architecture reminds us of our home. We are, as Ratzinger has brilliantly stated, “wanderers and pilgrims” (it is our humanity). This implies that 1) we are nomads—without a home here, and 2) that we are going somewhere. Seeing the beauty present within these Churches touches the heart, and reminds us that while we are nomads here, we do have a home elsewhere—in the arms of God!—and that it is in those arms where we are journeying to. This the Liturgy points us toward and reminds us of. Beauty is an element, then, of the Liturgy; and so it is only fitting and freeing to see the place of the Divine Liturgy be a place of beauty, a place fit for a King.

After visiting such incredible places, and spending time in such a holy town, I was in a state of wander and awe. Pax et bonum!

[Note: I will try to get some pictures up soon.]